"Jura, in eastern France, is a darling region in the natural-wine movement, partly because winemaking techniques there have not been swept up into the modern (industrial) age.
The Domaine Joly Les Varrons is all chardonnay, but it’s made in an old-fashioned way with the grapes fermented on the skins. The result is a slightly hazy, amber-colored wine with more tannin than we expect from modern white wines. That gives it a sense of bite on the palate, as well as the stuffing to match heartier foods than we might usually pair with white wines. Try this with a spring stew of veal or lamb, a pork roast or roasted chicken."